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Many home games are played “dealer’s choice.” This means that the deal rotates from player to player, one hand at a time, with each dealer given the responsibility of choosing which variant of poker to deal. Which game do you pick?

Assuming there are no restrictions on what games you may call, you may want to call a game with at least some advantage for the dealer. Games that have sequential betting, beginning with the dealer’s left, are examples of games with a built-in dealer advantage. If the first player to the dealer’s left starts the betting action, then the dealer gets to see the action of every other player at the table before he decides on his own action — a decided advantage.

Hold’em, Omaha, and draw poker are the three chief varieties of games that fall into this category. Meanwhile stud games, whether played high, low, or high-low, do not have a positional advantage for the dealer. Unless you judge your skill as much greater in these stud games than your opponents, you should consider staying away from them when it is your turn to call the game, since the betting action depends entirely on the up cards, giving no advantage to the dealer.

Draw games give the dealer an additional advantage, since the decision to draw is done sequentially, ending with the dealer. Knowing how many cards your opponents are drawing before you have to draw gives you an edge. And the more draws per game, the bigger the advantage.

This advantage gets amplified even further in high-low variants of draw. The knowledge of how your opponents are drawing can be especially useful in letting you know whether they are trying to win high or low, providing you with another enormous advantage.

Games with replacement cards at the end (or multiple drawing rounds) are similarly beneficial to the dealer, if they are played with sequential as opposed to simultaneous replacement of the cards. Your opponent’s election of a replacement card is a window into his likely holding, providing an advantage to the last person to reveal such information — that is, the dealer.

Dealer's choice is a style of poker where each player may deal a different variant.As the deal passes clockwise around the table, each player occupying the dealer position chooses a variant which is either played just for the current hand or for an entire orbit. It is a common choice for home games, where the tone of the game is usually more recreational than competitive.

Consider the following example from a $5/$10 fixed-limit dealer’s choice home game. Let’s say you are the dealer and call 5-card single draw, high-low declare, with a replacement at the end prior to the simultaneous (chip in hand) declare. If not familiar, read on — it’s easy enough to follow how this game is played, and well illustrates the benefit of calling a game with a significant dealer advantage.

You deal yourself . The first two players check, then the third player opens for $5 followed by three callers. You call also, meaning five of you remain for the initial drawing round. The first player, who was the initial bettor, then draws one, the next player three, the next player three, and the last player draws two.

You already have an enormous amount of information in this game, even before you have to decide how many cards to draw. You realize that the second and third player are surely going for high, because with three-card draws each they almost certainly are drawing to a pair. The fourth player, who didn’t raise pre-draw, is probably making a bad two-card draw for high or low. And the first player with a one-card draw probably has two pair, since he initiated the betting and only drew one card.

Armed with a good inference that you will likely be the best low draw, you decide not to draw to your pair of deuces but to your low. You get the , giving you — a mediocre low or a drawing hand to a very strong high and possible two-way hand.

There is a betting round. The first player bets again, the next player calls. The next player raises. The next player, who had the two-card draw, folds. Once again, you have a lot of information before you have to make a decision.

You figure that the first player bet his two pair again, probably having not made his full house (because of the very long odds he was bucking), but not wanting his drawing opponents to get a free card. You figure the next player didn’t make a great high hand but wants to draw one card again to see if he can hit a winner. The raising player you figure for trips or better. You have a decent but not great low. But you’re also thinking you’re probably the only player going low, giving you a likely lock on half of the eventual pot. So you raise again. The first player calls, the next player folds, and the final player caps the betting. You and the third player call along.

For the replacement round, the first player immediately pushes a card forward for replacement and the other player also replaces a card. You have a decision to make. You can toss your and go for a flush and a 9-low, or stand pat with your 9-7-low. Thinking through the action you figure, once again, that the first player must not have a low — if he did, he would be unlikely to try and replace a card, and would have stood pat with his low. You know the second player must be going high since he made a three-card draw. And you also know he raised, so you figure he must have at least high trips. So you decide not to draw to a flush (which may be a losing high hand even if it hits), but play your mediocre low.

After the replacement round there is another betting round. Your first opponent bets. The second opponent calls. You, with what you judge to be the only low (even if mediocre), raise. Your first opponent reraises, the second opponent calls, and you cap it, with both players calling. You now declare. Your opponents declare high and you declare low. Your first opponent has tens full. Your second opponent has three kings. You win half of an enormous pot, mostly due to the fact that you had the advantage of seeing how everyone acted before you had to act.

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If you are hosting the game, you can neutralize the dealer advantage easily enough (though if it gives you an edge you may not want to). Some home poker games have the initial betting action progress clockwise during the play of the hand, so the bet after the flop starts two to the left of the dealer, and the bet after the turn starts three to the left of the dealer, and so on. Nearly all declare games, as in the example game above, have a simultaneous declare. (Imagine how a sequential declare, beginning to the dealer’s left, would vastly increase the dealer advantage.)

But these are all partial methods that fail to fully neutralize the dealer advantage. The only sure-fire method is to have each player call a round of a game, such as is done in the “Dealer’s Choice” events at the World Series of Poker. Doing that ensures every player deals the same game, giving the dealer advantage to every player in turn before the next game is called.

^{Photo: “Dealer,” Adam Cutler. Creative Commons Attribution-NoDerivs 2.0 Generic.}

Ashley Adams has been playing poker for 50 years and writing about it since 2000. He is the author of hundreds of articles and two books, Winning 7-Card Stud (Kensington 2003) and Winning No-Limit Hold’em (Lighthouse 2012). He is also the host of poker radio show House of Cards. See www.houseofcardsradio.com for broadcast times, stations, and podcasts.

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Ed. note: The 2018 World Series of Poker is fast approaching. In order to get ready, we're again sharing author Ken Lo's strategy advice for games other than no-limit hold'em.

The World Series of Poker introduced the new 'Dealer's Choice' format in 2014 with a single $1,500 buy-in event. The format proved popular enough for the WSOP to bring it back the following year, adding a second $10,000 'Championship' version of Dealer's Choice as well, and have continued to include two Dealer's Choice events on the schedule every year since.

This year both Dealer's Choice events come relatively early, with the $1,500 version (Event No. 12) starting June 4 and the $10,000 one (Event No. 18) on June 7. With interest in mixed games steadily growing, both events should once again attract a lot of players excited to play different poker variants.

Dealer's Choice

In Dealer's Choice, players take turns selecting a game (from a list of pre-approved games) to play for one orbit. Unlike other multi-variant mixes such as H.O.R.S.E. or the 8-Game mix where the order of games to be played in a rotation is predetermined, in Dealer's Choice the games played at any given table will depend on the players at that table and their particular game preferences.

Allowing individual players to select which games are to be played from orbit to orbit has an interesting impact on game dynamics that is unique to this type of event. Players often need to balance a number of considerations in their game selection strategy, including what they believe their strongest games to be, what they think the weakest games of the particular opponents at their table are, and relative stack and blind sizes, to name a few.

In fact, the ability to assess quickly and accurately the relative level of expertise of one's opponents in each of the different disciplines would undoubtedly be an extremely valuable skill for any player to have in a Dealer's Choice tournament.

In this article, we briefly introduce the 20 different games on this year's Dealer's Choice line-up at the WSOP. For ease of reference, we've grouped the games into five general categories. Basic tips and strategies for some of these games can be found in earlier articles in this series.

1. Hold'em variants

• No-Limit Hold'em
• Pot-Limit Hold'em
• Limit Hold'em

We've been thinking outside the 'hold'em box' these last few weeks, but we might as well start with the three hold'em variants included in the 20-game 'Dealer's Choice' menu. Most readers are no doubt familiar with hold'em games where players are dealt two hole cards with which they try to make the highest-ranking five-card hand along with the five community cards shared by all players.

The main difference between the three variants noted above is the betting structure employed. Whereas in no-limit hold'em there is no limitation on the amount that can be wagered at any given time, there are restrictions on the sizes of bets and raises in both the limit and pot-limit variations of the game.

Here's a tip — Be aware that the value of speculative hands (e.g., small pocket pairs and suited connectors) diminishes as greater restrictions are placed on bet sizes. These types of hands rarely make winning hands often enough to justify the potential return.

For example, while there certainly will be situations where playing a hand such as in NLHE can be very lucrative — you may be able to win the entire stack of an unsuspecting opponent on a favorable board — in limit hold'em the pots won will typically be much smaller even if you happen to make the best hand. The limit structure can also sometimes make it more difficult to execute bluffs successfully when you miss.

2. Omaha variants

• Pot-Limit Omaha (High)
• Pot-Limit Omaha Hi-Lo Eight-or-Better
• Limit Omaha (High)
• Limit Omaha Hi-Lo Eight-or-Better
• Big 'O'

In the first four games listed above, players are each dealt four hole cards rather than two, and as is the case with NLHE a board of five community cards is dealt that is shared by all players. Further, when constructing a hand in any Omaha variant, players must use exactly two of their hole cards — no more no less — along with three community cards when constructing a five-card hand.

In the 'High' versions of these games, players aim to make the highest-ranking five-card hand (using standard poker rankings), whereas in 'Hi-Lo' versions half the pot is awarded to the best high hand while the other half is awarded to the best qualifying eight-or-better low hand (check out my previous Omaha Hi-Lo article for a discussion of low hand rankings).

Big 'O' is a relatively new addition to the Dealer's Choice slate of games. It is an action-packed variation of PLO, played with five hole cards rather than four.

Here's a tip — Be aware that the more hole cards that are dealt to each player, the stronger the hands that can be made will be. In other words, in Omaha games NLHE players will need to adjust their expectations of what they consider to be strong hands.

For example, flopped bottom sets and straights are not as strong in Omaha variants as compared to NLHE and can easily be overvalued, especially when the player's hand affords no possibility for improvement to an even stronger hand and the pot is being contested multi-way.

3. Stud variants

• Razz
• Seven-Card Stud
• Seven-Card Stud Hi-Lo Split Eight-or-Better
• Seven-Card Stud Hi-Lo Split Regular (no qualifier)

These stud variants in the Dealer's Choice slate of games all follow a fixed limit betting structure. In stud games, players are dealt their own individual boards of cards — each player receives two hole cards face down, four cards face up and visible to all, and a final card face down for a total of seven cards.

In razz, the object is to make the lowest five-card hand from a player's seven available cards (we discussed basic strategies in 'WSOP Mixed Games Strategy: Razz'). In seven-card stud, the object is to make the highest five-card hand, using standard poker rankings.

In seven-card stud hi-lo, half the pot is awarded to the highest hand (as in seven-card stud), while the other half is awarded to the lowest hand. In the 'no qualifier' version of this game, the pot is always split between the best low and high hands, whereas the 'eight-or-better' version institutes a low hand qualifier: if no low hand better than 8-high can be made, then the best high hand wins the entire pot.

Here's a tip — Pay attention to the upcards of your opponents at all stages of a hand. Against opponents who are contesting the pot with you, nearly two-thirds of their boards will become visible, allowing you to assess the range of hands they are likely to hold.

It is also important to take note of the upcards of players who fold at some point after the initial deal. For example, if you are drawing to a straight or a flush and you see that many of your outs have been already exhausted, you should take that information into account when determining whether or not to continue pursuing your draw.

4. Single Draw variants

• No-Limit Five-Card Draw (High)
• No-Limit 2-7 Lowball Draw

In both of these games, there is no cap on the maximum amount of any given wager, similar to NLHE. That said, despite this lack of a restriction on bets and raises, as there are only two betting rounds these games are usually not as volatile as other pot-limit or no-limit poker variants.

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In both each player is dealt five hole cards. There is a pre-draw betting round, followed by a single drawing round, then a final betting round.

These two variants can generally be thought of as opposites of one another. In five-card draw, players are trying to make the highest five-card hand, with standard poker rankings used; in 2-7 draw, players aim to make the lowest five-card hand. As discussed in my earlier 2-7 draw article, aces count as high, undesirable cards in all 'deuce-to-seven' games, and flushes and straights are similarly unwanted.

Here's a tip — The value of position in these games cannot be overemphasized. Since none of your opponents' cards are visible, the only concrete information you will typically gain regarding the strength of their hands is the number of cards drawn. Playing in position can, for instance, provide you with options in situations where you are faced with a choice to keep certain cards, or discard them in an attempt to make a better hand.

Also, you will find that it is difficult for players to make very strong hands when only a single draw is available. On average, hands such as two pair or even an unimproved big pair will win a fair share of pots in five-card draw. See my 2-7 draw article (linked to above) for a discussion of expected hand strengths for that game.

5. Triple Draw variants

• 2-7 Lowball Triple Draw
• A-5 Lowball Triple Draw
• Badugi
• Badeucy
• Badacey
• Pot-Limit 2-7 Lowball Triple Draw

In 2-7 and A-5 triple draw, players are each dealt five cards, and have three drawing opportunities to try to make the lowest possible hand. The difference between the two variants lies in the ranking system used.

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As noted in my earlier 2-7 triple draw article, aces are undesirable cards, and flushes and straights count against hands. By contrast, in A-5 triple draw, aces count as low, desirable cards, and straights and flushes are ignored. Therefore, (regardless of suits) is the best hand in A-5 triple draw.

In Badugi, players are also given three drawing opportunities to make a low hand, but only four cards are dealt to each player in that game. As discussed in my previous article, the object of Badugi is to try to make the lowest possible hand consisting of four uniquely ranked cards with all four suits represented.

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Badeucy and Badacey are both cash-game favorites, both being split-pot versions of regular Badugi. Like 2-7 and A-5 triple draw, each player is dealt five cards, and there are three drawing opportunities. Badeucy is best considered a variation of 2-7 triple draw (think 'deuce'), while Badacey can be considered a variation of A-5 triple draw (think 'ace').

In Badeucy, one-half of the pot is awarded to the best, five-card 2-7 triple draw hand, whereas in Badacey that same half of the pot is awarded to the best, five-card A-5 triple draw hand instead. The other half of the pot in both Badeucy and Badacey is awarded to the best Badugi hand that can be made from a player's five cards (i.e., the four lowest cards unique in rank and in suit, or fewer if only incomplete Badugi hands can be made).

Finally, pot-limit 2-7 Lowball Triple Draw was the most recent variant added to the Dealer's Choice mix, introducing a different betting structure to traditional limit-only 2-7 triple draw.

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Here's a tip — In 'deuce-to-seven' games such as 2-7 Triple Draw and Badeucy, most playable starting hands will include a deuce, since most of the highest-ranking low hands contain a deuce.

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Also, in split-pot variants such as Badeucy and Badacey, having low-ranked rainbow cards in a starting hand is extremely valuable — if you improve to a strong Badugi hand quickly, you may well have several 'free' chances to improve to a sufficiently strong five-card hand that could earn you the entire pot.

Ken Lo is the author of A Poker Player's Guide to Mixed Games: Core Strategies for HORSE, Eight-Game, Ten-Game, and Twelve-Game Mixes, He is based in Toronto, Canada. Follow him via the book's Facebook page and on Twitter @ppgmg.

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